Why I like WW socks

3: They're soft and cushy
2: They're warm and cuddly
1: They're a very quick knit

If you use the right yarn-acrylic or wool-you'll get a cushy-soft sock that works up in a breeze. I'm almost at the toe shaping of a pair of socks I started a couple of weeks ago that probably wouldn't have taken more than a few days of knitting if I hadn't put the first one down to work on something else for awhile. I'm using Simply Soft Heathers in Truffle on #3 DPNs and it only takes 48 sts to make a sock for my size 8-1/2 wide feet-and they're even the teensiest bit big, which isn't bothering me because I can't stand snug socks.

Yes, I do like socks made from sock yarn too-but they take a bit longer because you're working on at least twice the stitches on smaller needles, and with my CTS, sometimes the really small needles are a pain to work with because one or both of my hands will go numb after awhile.

Another good yarn for socks-and yes, I have a pair on the needles for that too-is Cascade 220 Superwash. It's a lighter weight than the SS, but I'm still using the same size 3 DPNs and I have the same number of stitches as for the SS, but the Cascade is a bit stretchier than the acrylic, so the sock will still fit and not be too snug. I'm using a twisted rib pattern I'm making up and writing down as I go, so look for it to be posted in my patterns soon-it's a bit different from other twisted rib patterns in that I'm twisting the stitches on every sixth round so you can still see the ribbing, but it breaks up the monotony some, since I'm carrying the rib pattern all the way down the instep.

But with the damp, chilly winters we have here in SW Miss, I like a nice thick sock for keeping my feet warm-and winter is when I usually wear socks/shoes cause I hate anything on my feet-which is also why I usually make ankle socks-and those make up even quicker than other socks-although I might try a taller sock to see how the twisted rib looks on it when I go to make another pair, I just don't think I have enough of the Cascade to do it with these socks.

Another thing I just don't understand about most sock construction patterns-why do they distribute the stitches so that they have to be rearranged when you get to the heel shaping, and why do they put the instep stitches on one needle when they get through with the heel? That, to me, is an awful lot of work for a pair of socks. The ones I'm working on have the heel stitches already on the third needle (last needle worked in a round) and I haven't seen any difference in the way my plain socks look than ones where you have to do all that shifting around. Yes, there is a slight line down the front of the sock where the two needles were when the sock isn't on the foot, but you have to look real hard for it, and it doesn't really bother me-as long as you snug up the first stitch or two when you change needles you won't get ladders.

Another thing-the heel flap/turning/gusset shaping of most heel instructions in patterns. Well, that's an awful lot of work to put into a heel, and yes, I can do them, but I don't like the way they turn out or look on the finished sock-even the pictures of socks where people can probably do them better than me. Short row heels and toes are much neater and cleaner-looking than traditional heel/toe shaping and make the heel/toe look more like a store sock, but better-since you made it yourself.

While I'm on the subject of short row toes-yes, I meant on a top-down sock. I don't like the way the leg of the toe-up sock does, it's a bit too snug for my taste. And if the top-down sock makers already know how to graft toe stitches together, there isn't much difference in grafting the sock together at the end of the sock than it is grafting it together at the instep-except you have more stitches and it takes a bit more time. Yes, there is a slight line there where it meets-due to the difference in looks of back and forth st st and st st in the round, but that just makes the sock look more store-bought, and like I said, it's a very slight line which store-bought socks have yet to achieve, because they sew their socks together at the instep instead of grafting them.

So, those are my comments on why I like my way of constructing socks-yours may differ, and that's okay-just like there's no right or wrong way to knit or crochet, there is also no right or wrong way to construct a sock, as long as it looks like a sock when you finish it.

Oh, WOW

I put this basic pattern up because I wanted to do a sock in yarn that anyone could afford. I'm using Caron Simply Soft Heather in Truffle Heather 9502 and it makes a really pretty color for a sock. I think next time I'm going to make them longer-although ankle socks are my favorite socks since I don't like wearing anything on my feet unless they're cold.

I'm almost done with it-I'm at the toe shaping-and I decided to try the sock on. Wow, the sock is so soft and comfy that I couldn't believe it. I'm definitely finishing the second sock. I just wish I had a camera to take a picture, but I don't, maybe Santa will grant my wish and bring me a little digital one.

Anyway-I already have some more SS yarn and I'm making me some more socks out of it-they're thick, warm and cozy.

And if I want to make nice wool socks, I'll go to my LYS and purchase Cascade 220 superwash wool-the socks I'm doing out of it-while not nearly as thick as my SS socks-are nevertheless very soft and comfortable. And Cascade yarns are pretty affordable-even on my budget.

Cables

Have you seen the Fetching Fingerless Gloves from Knitty ? Do you want to make them, but don't have a cable needle or extra dpn, or you just aren't sure if you can make cables? Well, if you aren't a beginning knitter, and you don't mind a few acrobatics with dropped stitches, then cables without cable needles is what you need.

I know when you first read Wendy's tutorial on doing them that you'll say "No way!" but I tried it and as long as you're careful and hold the stitches just beneath them, then you can do this. I now do cables this way when I make cables-which isn't very often, admittedly-so I have no use for buying extra equipment just to make them with.

I would suggest that you take some scrap yarn and some needles and practice this technique before implementing it in a project so you can do it effortlessly-or as effortlessly as possible. Sometimes you will split the stitch when picking up the dropped stitches, but that's easily remedied for any knitter who isn't a rank beginner.

Anyway. I probably have a post about this somewhere in my archives, but I just think it bears repeating now and then.

And while we're on the subject of the Fetching glove, she uses a pretty bulky yarn and larger needles, which makes the glove look pretty big with her pattern. I've seen posts in a knitting community about it-which was several years ago, but that doesn't matter-and they pretty much said when they made them that way, the glove was big. Well, I tried the pattern using Cascade 220 superwash wool and #3 DPNs and followed her pattern exactly. While my glove wasn't thick and chunky like hers, it did fit like....well....a glove. Also, I don't like the picot bind off, so I just bind off in a normal bind off, following the K4, P1 pattern. And before any of you say that I probably just have a small hand-no, I don't-I may not have huge hands, but they've never been small and dainty either, so that glove pattern-made to her specs-would probably fit a man's hand, if a man were so inclined to wear fingerless mitts like that. If I was to make them with a chunkier yarn, I'd probably go down to about a #5 or #4 set of needles to make them a bit smaller.

I had to frog my Lion Wool socks-I don't swatch, and the socks were a bit snug. Never fear-I will remake them since I only need to add a few more sts to make them not so snug. And I think I'll opt for top-down since I think that will make the leg a bit more to my liking and a bit stretchier. I can still do a short row toe since I don't like the toe decreases, and graft the instep sts to the sole sts when I get around to the top. If I can snag a camera somewhere I'll even take a picture and post it when I'm done.

Right now, I'm experimenting with Caron Simply Soft so that when I go back to the wool I'll know what to do-don't want to frog wool too many times or it will felt.

I must say I do like what's going on with the Simply Soft-I might do more socks in that if it fits right-I do like the thicker WW sock over regular socks.

Yarn

Everyone has their favorite yarn to use. I use RHSS or Caron SS mostly because I can't always afford the more expensive wools and such-plus, I'm usually making afghans, slippers, slipper socks, etc. that take pretty hard wear and I don't have the time or inclination to specially wash an item simply because it will shrink and felt if I machine wash. Yes-I'm lazy.

I've read of crocheters and knitters who scorn RHSS to no end because it feels rough to them compared to wool and it hurts their hands-yes, it does feel a bit rougher to me, but I also have slightly calloused hands from working outside a lot, so it doesn't feel that rough and yucky to me. It helps that it's also the yarn my mother always used, so I've used it all my life. It's not going to feel like wool-it's made from plastic, don't expect it to feel like wool or any other luxury fiber. Caron SS is a very soft acrylic that I do like working with-it's plastic too, I know, but they've made it really soft. I wouldn't use RH for socks-it is too rough and stiff for that (except for the baby yarn)-but I would use it for just about anything else, and have.

I also like working with the acrylic baby yarns, since they're so soft too, and babys should have things that shouldn't have to be specially washed either-because mommy likely works and doesn't have the time or inclination to specially wash anything.I guess I'm saying-you like what you like and I'll like what I like-just don't chide me for using what I use-I'm not making it for you anyway ;)

Dog Hoodie

Dog Hoodie

I'm making this for my miniature Basset Hound. There are some things I'm doing/going to do different with this pattern though.

I'm using a circular needle in a size 9 or 10 (I think-there is no place on them that indicates size-they're the Boye circular)

I'm using RHSS yarn in Linen-a medium beige color.

I've reversed the order of the decreases in the hood-the left-slanting SSK is supposed to go on the right side of your work and the right-slanting K2TOG is supposed to go on the left side of your work.

Also, where she stops (just after the ribcage) leaves half a dog uncovered-that won't do-so I'm going to dec some sts (not sure yet how many) and simply work in K1P1 ribbing until it reaches her tail and put it together up to where her back legs are. For a male, you would want to put it together and leave a space for his wee ;)

Depending on how many sts are on my needles, I might get to work some of this in the round since I'm using a circular needle-I'll see. Anyway, I'll keep you updated on the progress-it's a nice little basic doggie sweater, it just needs a few mods. I'm also debating just putting some ribbing around the leg openings instead of sleeves-and I can do that with magic loop-so I don't have to go out and buy any DPNs that I might not use again.

Almost Finished

I've just about finished the pair of socks that I talked about in the last post-the WW in Lion wool. Not only do WW socks knit up faster, doing one sock, then working on the other means I'll still have a pair in less time than if I'd done one sock, then the other, because I'd have likely put the second sock down for no telling how long.

I'm at the cuff, and I'm just deciding how long I want it-it's around an inch or so now, and I think I want it long enough to fold down if I desired, so I'm going to go for 4-6 inches-which should be about thirty rnds. I'll still have yarn leftover to try the double knitting technique I also talked about-so I might make a pair of ankle socks doing that with the rest of the yarn.

I'll let you know-I just hope I haven't made a mistake in doing my first double-knit pair of socks in the same color instead of practicing using two colors-we'll see.

Socks

They aren't as terrifying as you think they are-especially crocheted ones. Check the internet and you'll find as many patterns for crocheted socks as you will for knitted ones-in ranges from easy to experienced.

Right now, I'm knitting a pair of socks using some Lion wool I got on sale at my local W-M, which must be discontinuing it. I got three skeins of winter white and one black, so I'm going to see what kind of socks I can get out of them. Since this is a WW yarn, I'm using size three double pointed needles and Wendy's Toe-Up Sock pattern

Of course, I'm having to adjust it since she uses sock yarn and size 0 needles, but that's not hard. And to get both socks at once, I have two sets of needles since I don't feel like trying the two socks on one circular yet. What I'm doing instead is starting one sock to the foot part, then going to the other sock using another ball of yarn and the other needles. Then I'll work so far on one sock, and switch to the second sock. I read somewhere of a woman doing both socks at once on dpns, using the double knitting method, but I'm too chicken to try that just yet. I'd link to that, but it was quite some time back and I'm not sure I could find it again.

Anyway-with the weather cooling off, I decided some nice warm socks would be nice.

Oh, and since my dpns only come in sets of four, I'm keeping my heel sts (half the total sock) on one needle and dividing the instep sts over the other two needles. One thing about knitting-there's really no right or wrong way to do things-just the way that's comfortable for you. Same for crocheting-don't let anyone tell you that what you're doing is wrong.

Edit: I decided to see if I could find that article on double knitting a pair of socks on dpns to get a pair-and once I used the right search words I found it.

Pair of socks on dpns

I'm still interested in trying this technique, but I think I'll do it with two different colors first and do two pairs of socks-using my technique of two sets of dpns-once I finish this pair of winter white socks I'm making. I have one ball of winter white and one ball of black to try it with.

Drops slippers

Drops Crochet Slippers

Drops Crochet Slippers

I'm doing these, and they're working up pretty quickly, even though I'm using RH Bright and Lofty in Beaches color. I'm also using a size M hook and making the middle size. This pattern is only in British crochet terms, so keep that in mind if you do it. Also, you have to have another pattern to get the bootie part-they give you the number, but I have the link for it, it's the second one above.

I would not recommend RH Bright and Lofty, Light and Lofty or LB Homespun for these, if you are a beginning crocheter- the stitches are very hard to see. If you don't use their recommended Eskimo yarn, you might want to try Bernat Softee Chunky, or some other similar weight yarn.

I really like the color, I haven't done the top of the bootie yet, and I'm debating whether or not to do it, cause I like it as is. I may not have enough in the one skein of RH I have and don't want to buy more just to do the tops-we'll see.

When I get my hands on a camera, I'll post a pic, I'm still working on the heel of bootie #2.

Back in a sock groove

Maybe I'll actually finish a pair. I'm actually experimenting a bit with a couple of different ways to make them.

I'm going to try two socks on one circular needle as soon as I find some sock yarn I like-I think I might like that method because I can do an entire pair and not have to worry about SSS. OTOH, I'm also a start-stopper because I like to start something and then put it aside so unless it's something I REALLY want to finish it's liable to be a UFO for quite some time-until I decide to finish or frog ;)

I'm also trying a toe up sock with an afterthought heel. I'm using Caron SS in a baby varigated and making the toe, heel and leg ribbing in a pale yellow. I'm knitting this one in the round on DPNs size three. I have the toe done and have started on the instep-I'll let you know when I get to the heel. Even with the size three needles the fabric is still pretty soft, considering they suggest using size eight. If I like this method I might adopt it for the two socks on one circular when I find the right sock yarn.

Before I try the two socks, I'm practicing Magic Loop by making a basic fingerless mitt with some cotton/wool sock yarn I came across and only bought one ball. I should be able to get a pair out of it and I just couldn't see this colorway as a sock anyway. I'm almost done with the first one and will take a picture when it is. By the time I make the second I should be proficient enough at Magic Loop to try the two socks.

If I actually finish a pair, or even one sock, I'll post a picture for your enjoyment-or to mock-as you see fit :D

I admit it

I am in love with Addi Turbo circular knitting needles. I bought a pair in size 1 and 40" long to use in the Magic Loop technique of knitting small circumferences on one long circular. This needle puts Boye to shame. I might still use Boye in the larger sizes but for socks and things of that nature it's now Addi Turbo.

I got some Steinbach Wolle Strapaz Cotton Effekt sock yarn and am making a pair of wristwarmers with it. It's only a 50g ball so not enough to do socks with unless I maybe make footies but for some reason wristwarmers were calling out to this yarn and I've heard you must listen to your yarn-hehe.

I have an idea

All of the instructions (that I've found) for making two socks at once using Magic Loop have said to start with the figure eight cast on. I don't like that cast on-I could never do it right-it's the reason I haven't tried knitting two socks at once-Magic Loop or with two circs. Well, if you can do two socks at once with Magic Loop and figure eight cast on then why can't you do two socks at once with Magic Loop using provisional cast on? I haven't tried it yet because I don't have a circular needle the right size and length but I will soon-I'm going to splurge at my LYS and get an Addi Turbo in size 1 and the longest they have. I'm going to try it out with some cheap acrylic first to see if it works and then I might post instructions on how to do it.

Personally, I like the short row toe to the other type of toe up pattern anyway, it looks neater.

Stand by, more to come when I've tried it.

On another note, a friend of mine from Bavaria is going to send me some sock yarn-I can't wait-and I'm trying to think of what to do for her in return. I have an idea-hopefully she'll like it.

Another future product idea

I've been browsing this LJ Community

It's all about the deconstruction/reconstruction of t-shirts. The things these ladies come up with are amazing and now I want to do something with t-shirts.

My idea is a dress. When I find the right t-shirt, I want to turn the sleeves to the inside and sew them down for a facing to have a sleeveless dress. I'm debating taking the neck ribbing out or not-that's still debatable. Then I want to do some type of quilt block for the skirt. I'm visualizing it pretty well but I'm probably not explaining it very well-a failing of mine.

Anyway, that's in the future-after the peasant skirt and when I've healed from the dental appointment coming up in about a week.

A Future Sewing Project

I have always wanted to try making a peasant skirt and knew it would probably be easy-the only hard part would be making the tiers the right size. I really didn't want to buy a pattern to do this so I've put it off.

That is, until I was browsing around, searching free sewing projects. I found free instructions for constructing a peasant skirt-complete with a calculator that takes your largest measurement-usually the hip-and calculates the pieces for two different lengths. Then it instructs you in how to construct the skirt. It's found here in case anyone's interested in trying it themselves.

I have some material here at the house, I just need to find time to iron the wrinkles out of it and get it ready to use.

I'm not sure when I'm going to do this but I know I'm going to give it a try sometime in the near future.

A dress

I finished my dress and it turned out really nice-even the sleeves and neck facing, which I don't like doing. I wore it to church this past Sunday and received many compliments on it. The only thing I would change about it if I were to make it again would be the length-it's a bit too long for my taste. I like my dresses and skirts on the long side but not almost touching the floor-a hazard of being short is that most dress patterns that fall below the knee will inevitably hit me around my ankles.

Anyway, here's a picture:

Trying something new

I found a pair of cropped trousers-they could actually be somewhere between cropped trousers and gaucho trousers-when I was cleaning in my sewing room. They're a size 16 and, while I can get into them, they're a might tight. I usually wear an 18 and when I'm sewing, I have to cut out the size 22. Anyway, since the things are also stained pretty badly, I thought I'd pick them apart and make a paper pattern with them since I like the way they're made-apart from the self belt in the front, which I don't have to put in. I got them picked apart and they're just like the shorts pattern I use all the time except the pockets are done differently. There's a front, a back and a pocket to trace onto paper-when I can find some-I'll just have to add on about ⅝" on each side. I like the length so I won't add anything there, I just need to make them just a bit more roomy in the hip and waist. I'll also probably have to add that much onto the straight side of the pocket so it'll fit right and also study it a bit so I can get it back together-I might just keep the other half of them to use as a guide for that since I only picked apart half of it and left the other half sewn together.

Wish me luck.

Finished!!

Lots of things:

An apron-cuz I'm a messy cook-done Easter Sunday night:

My Easter suit-Finished the Saturday before:

Another Skirt, pair of shorts and gaucho trousers:

I did all of them last week-the last week of May, 2007. It was nice to get my machine out again and zip a few items of clothing up.

I plan on making a dress, I cut out the pattern over at Gregg's while babysitting, now all I have to do is pin it, cut it out and sew. I should have it done before Sunday and might wear it to church if it turns out-I really hate doing set in sleeves but they're short so maybe they'll be all right.

Sewing, sewing

I've almost got a jacket done and I'm cutting out the matching skirt-I had enough material left from the jacket to make one and the skirt pattern that came with the jacket pattern is really nice.

So it looks like I'll have a matching outfit for Easter anyway-and as a bonus, I can wear the jacket with a couple of other things in my wardrobe too.

*Doing a happy dance*

Another note to Self

Working with t-shirt material is a pain in the butt, but if you get it right the finished product looks good and is comfy.

Note to Self:

Self: Do not put the needle in your sewing machine backwards-it'll skip stitches like crazy!

Shows how long it's been since I've sewn anything, doesn't it?

I thought I'd make myself a new outfit for Easter-nothing fancy-just a split skirt and a top, maybe a jacket if I can manage it.

First-I couldn't find the presser foot/power cord to my sewing machine. Then I got to thinking and dug a little deeper in the closet I looked in last night. I guess I didn't dig deep enough last night-I pulled some stuff out and found the presser foot in a box in the bottom of the closet.

I went to Wal-Mart early this morning and got some new thread and new needles for my machine but when I started sewing it skipped stitches like crazy. I looked at everything and when nothing worked I got to looking at my needle.

Another note to Self: The flat side of the needle is supposed to point away from you when you insert it into the machine.